Character
The Story of Lichen
Oakmoss is a lichen valued in perfumery for its exceptional fixative properties and rich, complex scent. The extract provides earthy, woody, and subtly smoky characteristics that anchor fragrance compositions and extend the longevity of lighter top notes.
Heritage
Oakmoss appeared in perfumery as early as the 16th century, though baskets containing it were found in ancient Egyptian royal tombs. The French term "mousse de chêne" reflects its traditional association with oak forests. The lichen became a cornerstone of the chypre fragrance family, defining the signature mossy accord in iconic scents like Coty's Chypre (1917), Guerlain's Mitsouko (1925), and Dior's Miss Dior (1947). EU regulations in 2017 restricted atranol and chloroatranol allergens, fundamentally reshaping its modern use.
At a Glance
1
Feature this note
France
Primary source region
Ingredient Details
Solvent extraction
Thallus (lichen body)
Did You Know
"Producing just 1 kg of Oakmoss absolute requires at least 100 kg of harvested lichen, making it one of the most concentrated natural materials in perfumery."