The Artisan
The Story of Jacques Polge, Christopher Sheldrake
Jacques Polge spent his childhood summers near Grasse, breathing in jasmine-scented air and absorbing the landscape that gave birth to French perfumery. He studied English and literature at Aix-Marseille University before turning to an apprenticeship in Grasse under Jean Carles, the same mentor who trained many of France's greatest noses. Polge worked at Roure (now Givaudan) before arriving at Chanel in 1978, eventually succeeding Honore Prignon as head perfumer. Over 37 years, he shaped the house's modern identity, creating Coco, Allure, Chance, and Coco Mademoiselle while maintaining Chanel's classical foundations. He retired in 2015, passing the role to his son Olivier Polge. Christopher Sheldrake took an entirely different path. Born in Madras in 1955, he studied architecture before a three-month placement at Charabot in Grasse redirected his future. Master Perfumer Georges Coeur spotted his talent and hired him as an apprentice. Sheldrake spent formative years at Robertet in England, joined Chanel Paris in 1980, then Quest UK, before spending five years in Yokohama absorbing Japanese incense culture and spiritual traditions. He met Serge Lutens in Tokyo in 1989, beginning a partnership that produced nearly 100 fragrances for the Lutens line, including landmark works like Feminite du Bois and Ambre Sultan. Sheldrake returned to Chanel in 2005 as Director of R&D Perfumes, working alongside Polge until transitioning to his son. Their collaboration at Chanel produced some of the house's most nuanced Les Exclusifs fragrances.
Philosophy
Polge described perfume as a poetic language that everyone speaks in their own way. He maintained that a brand only shows it is alive by creating, yet stressed deliberate restraint, noting that Chanel fragrances complement rather than replace each other. He consistently designed for the long term, never chasing short-term trends. Sheldrake approaches perfumery through the lens of ingredient authenticity and cultural memory. His years in Japan left him fascinated by the spiritual dimension of scent, particularly incense traditions. While working within Chanel's elegant framework, he preserves a separate creative outlet through his Serge Lutens work, which he has called his secret garden. The two developed a natural symbiosis: Polge provided strategic continuity and classical structure, while Sheldrake contributed unexpected material combinations and cross-cultural references.
Creative Approach
Polge favors clean composition and restrained elegance. He gravitates toward aldehydic florals, modern woods, and rational structuring that lets materials breathe without excess ornamentation. His work at Chanel balances heritage with innovation, often revisiting house codes through contemporary interpretations. Sheldrake prefers richer, more complex textures with an almost architectural quality. His signature includes dense oriental compositions, unusual smoky or leathery accords, and ingredients that carry historical or cultural weight. He works comfortably across extremes, from luxury fine fragrance to everyday consumer products, a flexibility sharpened during his Japanese years. Together their style produced Chanel fragrances of unusual depth and layering, particularly visible in Coromandel and Sycomore.
At a Glance
1970
56+ years of craft
Signature Style
“Polge favors clean composition and restrained elegance. He gravitates toward aldehydic florals, modern woods, and rational structuring that lets materials breathe without excess ornamentation.”
Notable Creations
Antaeus
Coco
Egoiste
Allure
Allure Homme