The Artisan
The Story of Maxime Exler
Maxime Exler built his perfumery career through a rigorous scientific path rooted in Montpellier's chemistry programs. He earned a DUT in Chemistry before completing a Licence Professionnelle in Perfumes and Aromas at Université Montpellier 2, graduating in 2014. That same year, he joined Mane et Fils as a fragrance evaluation intern working on consumer goods, studying raw material remanence and stability on laundry formulations. A 2013 internship in biotechnology and natural extraction had already introduced him to developing aromatic extracts, while an earlier stint at Axens in inorganic chemistry laid additional technical groundwork. Over the following years at Mane, he transitioned from evaluation work into formal perfumery training. His portfolio now spans diverse markets and house types: Chinese luxury with Boitown and Documents, regional boutique brands including Borntostandout and Cherigan, mass-market players like Oriflame, and niche houses such as Tobba and Ajmal. Several of his recent creations, including Naked Laundry and Black Karak, have drawn significant attention for their unconventional oriental constructions. His trajectory reflects someone who chose depth over speed, building methodical expertise before stepping into the spotlight as a perfumer.
Philosophy
Exler approaches fragrance creation with a chemist's precision, treating each composition as a problem to solve through material understanding. His background in analytical techniques like GC-MS and SPME informs how he evaluates raw materials, favoring those with distinct character and tracking behavior through development. He speaks about fragrance creation with the vocabulary of a scientist but aims for emotional response, using technical knowledge to serve sensory goals rather than replace intuition. His work suggests an interest in materials that shift and evolve rather than remaining static, and a comfort with unexpected combinations that challenge wearer expectations. He appears drawn to concepts that feel personal or narrative-driven, where fragrance becomes a form of communication rather than mere decoration.
Creative Approach
Exler's compositions favor bold oriental structures with resinous depth. His signature materials include oud, cypriol, and musk, often supported by birch and saffron. Cardamom and black tea appear frequently, suggesting an affinity for warm, slightly bitter contrasts. He gravitates toward constructions that blend sensuality with an almost clinical freshness, a tension visible in Naked Laundry's aldehydic purity meeting skatole, and in Black Karak's dark material complexity. Many of his works carry an ungendered or unisex quality, moving beyond conventional family boundaries. His output ranges from approachable oriental florals for Boitown to more challenging modern constructions for Borntostandout, indicating range and adaptability across market segments.
At a Glance
2014
12+ years of craft
1
Total career creations
1
Single house focus
3.0
Community sentiment
Signature Style
“Exler's compositions favor bold oriental structures with resinous depth. His signature materials include oud, cypriol, and musk, often supported by birch and saffron.”
Notable Creations
Naked Laundry
Black Karak
Birch Bark
Caden
Shanghai le Soir