The Heritage
The Story of Toskovat'
Toskovat' is a Romanian niche fragrance house founded in 2022 by self-taught perfumer David-Lev Jipa-Slivinschi. The brand name derives from the Russian word toска (toska), approximating a feeling of longing without a clear object. Toskovat' creates what it calls extraits de mémoire, memory-driven fragrances built from personal recollection rather than perfumery convention. David-Lev works without classical training and embraces provocative combinations: bubblegum with gasoline, notes of blood and holy water, scents evoking childhood, desire, and transgression. The brand garnered international attention early, earning features in Vogue UK and The Wall Street Journal. Luca Turin, one of the field's most influential critics, sampled six Toskovat fragrances and described them as having "shocking top notes and gothic ingredient lists, followed by well-behaved heart and base notes." On fragrance communities like Fragrantica and Basenotes, each release sparks passionate debate. The house operates from Bucharest and has built a devoted following in remarkably little time.
Heritage
David-Lev Jipa-Slivinschi launched Toskovat' from Romania in 2022, becoming one of the most discussed new voices in niche perfumery. He describes himself as self-taught and sees that background as an asset. In interviews, he has stated that the lack of classical training means he operates without the constraints that formal education imposes. The brand name itself resists easy translation, drawing from the Russian concept of toска to evoke longing, nostalgia, and an ache without a specific target. Two years before launching Toskovat', David-Lev discovered his calling in perfumery after a period of searching. He began experimenting with fragrance creation during his transition from amateur to professional, developing an approach rooted in emotional storytelling rather than technical convention. When Toskovat' finally debuted, it arrived with a handful of extraits de mémoire that rejected the pretty floral compositions and crowd-pleasing fresh scents dominating the market. The early releases immediately divided opinion, precisely as intended. Inexcusable Evil, created during the early stages of Russia's invasion of Ukraine, exemplified the brand's confrontational approach, serving as a deliberate conversation piece rather than a traditional fragrance. The house quickly attracted international attention. Features in Vogue UK and The Wall Street Journal introduced Toskovat' to a global audience. Luca Turin's public comments on six fragrances cemented the brand's reputation within the fragrance critic community. Community platforms like Fragrantica and Basenotes developed active discussions around every release, with passionate defenders and vocal critics for each scent. David-Lev has also pursued bespoke commissions, working directly with clients to translate their personal stories and memories into individualized fragrances through intimate conversations. This service reinforces the brand's position as a storyteller and memory-artist rather than a conventional perfumer. The house has continued releasing new fragrances annually, expanding its collection while maintaining its confrontational ethos.
Craftsmanship
David-Lev Jipa-Slivinschi serves as the sole perfumer behind every Toskovat' creation. He works independently, without the support structure of a larger fragrance house, making all creative decisions personally. The brand presents its extraits de mémoire in 60 ml bottles, with concentrations suitable for the extended wear these narrative scents require. Community discussions on fragrance platforms indicate that Toskovat' compositions typically feature strong longevity and sillage, consistent with the brand's commitment to scents that make a statement rather than fade quietly. The specific ingredient sourcing details remain largely undisclosed, though the finished fragrances are discussed extensively by the enthusiast community, with particular attention to unconventional materials and unexpected combinations. David-Lev's creative process prioritizes the conceptual foundation of each fragrance. He begins with an emotional or narrative premise, then constructs the composition to support that concept. This approach means the materials serve the story rather than the reverse. The self-taught perfumer has developed his own methods for achieving complex, emotionally resonant scents without relying on classical training frameworks. His background allows him to pursue combinations that formally trained perfumers might avoid as rule-breaking. The brand's bespoke commission service demonstrates additional craft dimensions, where David-Lev works directly with individual clients to translate their stories and memories into personalized fragrances. These private commissions require deep conversation and careful interpretation, expanding the house's craft beyond its standard collection.
Design Language
The Toskovat' visual identity reinforces the brand's confrontational ethos. The aesthetic deliberately avoids the polished, aspirational imagery common to mainstream fragrance marketing. Instead, the brand presents itself with dark, gothic undertones that signal artistic intention over commercial appeal. Fragrance titles function as part of the aesthetic statement, ranging from evocative to deliberately provocative. Silent at The Theme Park, Born Screaming, Take Me to Church, and Inexcusable Evil all suggest narrative depth and emotional weight. The naming conventions reinforce that these are scent-stories rather than conventional perfumes. On social platforms, the brand maintains an aesthetic consistent with its identity, presenting fragrances as artistic objects with conceptual depth. The deliberately unsettling themes and imagery attract a specific audience: fragrance collectors who value meaning alongside smell. The aesthetic extends to the bottle presentation, which presents the extraits de mémoire in understated 60 ml containers. The packaging design prioritizes the conceptual framework of each fragrance over decorative luxury, signaling that the experience lies in the scent itself rather than status markers. This deliberately anti-luxury aesthetic within a niche context appeals to collectors seeking authentic artistic expression.
Philosophy
Toskovat' operates from a clear conviction: fragrance should function as emotional memory made tangible. The brand calls its creations extraits de mémoire, emphasizing that each scent begins not with an ingredient list but with a story or feeling. David-Lev has described the ideal fragrance as one capable of awakening forgotten recollections, of transporting the wearer to a specific moment or sensation. This approach deliberately sidesteps perfumery convention. Instead of building scents around pleasant accords or marketable themes, Toskovat' pursues compositions that capture difficult, ambiguous, or provocative emotional territory. The brand embraces challenging materials and unexpected combinations as legitimate artistic tools. David-Lev explicitly rejects the notion that classical training improves a perfumer's work. He has framed his self-taught status as a competitive advantage, suggesting it grants freedom to experiment without internalized rules about what fragrance should be. The philosophy extends to the brand's relationship with its audience. Toskovat' does not aim to please everyone. Division is acceptable, even welcome, because it signals genuine engagement with ideas rather than empty pleasantness. Luca Turin's observation captured this duality: shocking, gothic openings gradually yielding to more composed heart and base notes. The provocation serves a purpose, pulling the wearer through discomfort toward something unexpectedly wearable. Toskovat' treats each fragrance as a narrative artifact, a scent-story designed to provoke thought and feeling first, compliments second.
Key Milestones
2020
David-Lev Jipa-Slivinschi discovers his calling in perfumery and begins developing his craft, initially without formal training.
2022
Toskovat' launches from Romania with its first extraits de mémoire, including Silent at The Theme Park and Inexcusable Evil.
2023
The house releases Born Screaming, F7, Forlorn Embers & Black Reigns, and Last Birthday Cake, expanding its devoted following.
2023
Influential fragrance critic Luca Turin publicly comments on six Toskovat' fragrances, describing them as having shocking gothic top notes and well-behaved drydowns.
2024
Toskovat' continues expanding its collection with Take Me to Church and Desert Sermons.
2025
New releases include Amaretto In The Melting Room, P*rnstar (Noyau Doux), and Domus Numeni, with the collection reaching 27 fragrances.
At a Glance
Brand profile snapshot
Origin
Romania
Founded
2022
Heritage
4
Years active
Collection
1
Fragrances released
Avg Rating
3.2
Community sentiment