Chapter 5.

Chapter 5 emerged from Ajmal’s Untold Stories collection, a project that invites five acclaimed noses to write aromatic chapters. In 2025 Coralie Spicher and Fabrice Pellegrin set out to capture the tactile feel of fresh ink on a wooden desk, a nod to the house’s long‑standing love of rare oud and Arabian woodcraft. The name hints at a new page in the brand’s narrative, where the stark contrast of dark pigment and dry timber becomes a scent for innovators and free spirits.

The pairing of drawing‑ink accord with dry woods is unusual; it translates a visual medium into scent, giving the opening a metallic crispness rarely heard in perfumery. Birch tar adds a smoky, almost tar‑like depth that anchors the heart, while the inclusion of santol, a tropical fruit note, softens the transition to the warm, resinous oud and sandalwood. The base’s vanilla and crystallised moss provide an earthy sweetness that grounds the composition, turning a potentially harsh contrast into a balanced, lingering finish.

The first ten minutes roar with a sharp, ink‑black burst that feels like a pen striking fresh paper, the dry‑wood backdrop giving it a solid, almost tactile foundation. By the half‑hour mark the smoke of birch and incense rises, the heart swelling with a smoky, slightly animalic oud that softens the edge without losing intensity. Around the one‑hour point the sandalwood settles, adding creamy warmth, while a whisper of santol brightens the mix. As the scent dries down after two hours, vanilla spreads a velvety, dark sweetness, and crystallised moss introduces a subtle green earthiness that lingers on skin for the remainder of the day, keeping the ink‑like intrigue alive well into the evening.

Since its 2025 debut, Chapter 5 has been championed by creators who value bold contrasts, often mentioned alongside Tom Ford’s Black Lacquer for its ink‑like opening. Wearers describe it as the scent of a late‑night studio session, making it a favorite among designers, writers, and musicians seeking a fragrance that mirrors the creative process. Its strong sillage and long wear have sparked conversations about the place of avant‑garde woody‑smoky scents in mainstream niche markets.